Clay Working Basics Quick Reference
Hand Forming methods:
pinch clay squeezed into form, usually between fingers
slab a flat sheet of clay, often rolled with rolling pin, pounded out with hands or stamped on with feet or made with a slab roller
coil a strand or snake of clay, usually hand rolled or extruded
Joining techniques:
proper joining is essential for connections to survive
Hand Forming methods:
pinch clay squeezed into form, usually between fingers
slab a flat sheet of clay, often rolled with rolling pin, pounded out with hands or stamped on with feet or made with a slab roller
coil a strand or snake of clay, usually hand rolled or extruded
Joining techniques:
proper joining is essential for connections to survive
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● Slip first, then score both surfaces of wet clay
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● press clay together firmly
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● then blend clay together very well at seam, paying special attention to the ends of seams
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● for extra strength reinforce seam with coil (necessary for boxes and complex forms)
1) slipliquid clay (thick)
best tool – toothbrush dipped in a small amount of water rubbed
on the clay surfaces will create a sticky slip, necessary for adhesion
2) score rough scratched crosshatched surface
best tool metal fork scratched in all directions on both surfaces before
pressing firmly together
3) blend –smear clay together very well at seam Survival Tips;
Avoid excessive thickness (for our kiln firings do not exceed 1⁄2’ 3⁄4” max.) or clay can
explode!
Do not create air pockets or trap air or clay will explode!
Air pocket means there is no exit for the air (air expands in the hot kiln causing
an explosion.) Exit hole for air should be a decent size, at least 1⁄2” preferably larger.
Use canvas when rolling out slabs, but do not store work on canvas. Never store wet clay directly on a wood or plastic board.
Lightly sprinkle board with grog, then cover board with 12 sheets of newspaper (not more.)
Keep clay projects wet and extremely well wrapped (double bagged and tied of well) until totally finished (and approved by me.) Dry clay can not be joined properly and will fall apart later.
Fire only bone dry work, completely dry with no moisture, or it will explode!
Dry work does not feel cool to the touch. Work may look dry but still be damp.
After glazing dry clay (“oncefire”) do not place on ware cart for firing until a full day after glazing (or damp clay will explode.)
“Bisque” (already fired) work may be fired immediately after glazing.
Do not create air pockets or trap air or clay will explode!
Air pocket means there is no exit for the air (air expands in the hot kiln causing
an explosion.) Exit hole for air should be a decent size, at least 1⁄2” preferably larger.
Use canvas when rolling out slabs, but do not store work on canvas. Never store wet clay directly on a wood or plastic board.
Lightly sprinkle board with grog, then cover board with 12 sheets of newspaper (not more.)
Keep clay projects wet and extremely well wrapped (double bagged and tied of well) until totally finished (and approved by me.) Dry clay can not be joined properly and will fall apart later.
Fire only bone dry work, completely dry with no moisture, or it will explode!
Dry work does not feel cool to the touch. Work may look dry but still be damp.
After glazing dry clay (“oncefire”) do not place on ware cart for firing until a full day after glazing (or damp clay will explode.)
“Bisque” (already fired) work may be fired immediately after glazing.
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